Dining Around Pittsburgh
by Field Correspondent Jill Hershorin


In Pittsburgh, finding quality food at a reasonable price has not been so easy. In the eight months that I have been here, I have (finally) figured out where to go and what to order. Some places do not offer the ambiance or selection that you might be used to, but you gotta give up some things to gain a high return on food quality.

Trying to find a great Chinese restaurant in this town is like trying to find a non-smoker in a crowd of twenty-somethings - you suspect it exists, but you have to really search. One restaurant that has always been good is LuLu's Noodle Shop. Their food is consistent, never too salty or too greasy, and their selection is extensive and creative. Here you can get Korean, Japanese, and Chinese food at reasonable prices. Maybe it's because they have such a good deal for lunch ($5.95 platters) that they really lack in customer service. The "chow hall" mentality is apparent during this time. I've returned cold food on several occasions because of inconsistent food service. I highly recommend dining for dinner instead, if you enjoy the particular attention and better service available then.

Finding good sushi is a bit difficult. If you are willing to spend some bucks for a nice night out, Umi is the place to go for sushi. Mr. Shu is one of the most creative and versatile sushi chefs that I have ever encountered. The deal is to order "omakase": the chef serves his choice of that day's freshest selections from his arsenal. If you are willing to let a complete stranger decide what you will eat for the night, then this is the way to go. It is pricy (prices start at $65), but a truly great experience.

I have tried two Indian restaurants in town, Star of India and India Garden. Both have been disappointing. The fare at these restaurants is high in either heat or salt content but lacking in flavor. I have found that the absolute best Indian food can be found amongst the brigade of trucks that are parked across the street from Hillman Library. They have unbelievable samosas (75 cents apiece) that are as big as your fist. The paratha bread ($1.50) is a bit doughy, but stuffed with all kinds of goodies. The curry is mildly spiced and the masala is really amazing. The entrees cost $3.50 for a small serving (served in a pint container) and $4.75 for a large.

Italian food is abundant in Pittsburgh, especially in Bloomfield. I have been to Del's Ristorante DelPizzo twice and both times have been disappointing. They have all of the basics: calamari, Italian wedding soup, a good selection of pasta, and gourmet pizza. The last time (and I do mean the last time) I went, the service was so bad, it literally affected the outcome of the food. If you want undercooked pizza dough and average pasta, then this is the place for you. There is nothing here that is memorable, except the bad food and service. Oh, you do get a salad with your entree.

On the other hand, I have become a huge fan of two places for pizza. One is Aiello's Pizza on Murray Ave. New York-style pizza is served here and it is priced right ($1.25 per slice.) The crust is cooked perfectly - crusty on the outside and soft, fully cooked dough on the inside.

Another favorite is Enrico Biscotti Co. Enrico, who is a really lovely gentleman, uses the wood-burning stove, which gives his thin, genuine Italian pizza crust an incredible flavor. Here you can get a personal pizza with a small salad for $9. Their selections include brie and fig and the traditional Margherita, (tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, olive oil and basil.) The restaurant has other great selections from which to choose. It is obvious that they rely on the freshness of quality ingredients for their success. The original location, in the Strip District, is currently closed, but will reopen for Saturday lunch on April 10th. Their second location is in Shadyside, at 5863 Ellsworth Ave.

Finally one of the reasons for moving here was for the pierogies. I have become a connoisseur of the product and can tell you that the absolute best pierogies in town are at a place called Pierogies Plus. They are made in a tiny shop, once a gas station, by an army of capable women. There are 25 varieties of specialty pierogies here, ranging from potato and bacon to sauerkraut and kielbasa to hot sausage (with no potato!). You can even get apricot pierogies here. Some of the other items are stuffed cabbage ($1.90 a piece) and Haluski ($2.25 for a small serving). Go there hungry - they will serve you their products hot and ready. This is heaven on earth to me. It is worth the drive to McKees Rocks for these little pillows of joy!

Lu Lu's Noodle Shop: 400 South Craig St, Oakland, 412.681.3333
Enrico Biscotti Co.: 2022 Penn Ave., The Strip District, 412.281.2602 and
    5863 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside, 412.661.1050
Umi: 5849 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside, 412.362.6198
Aiello's Pizza, 2112 Murray Ave., Squirrel Hill, 412.521.0226 
Pierogies Plus: 342 Island Ave., McKees Rocks, 412.331.2224
 

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